![]() Again something that might not be easy to do with a casting. You could probably cast holes into the tie plates if you were going to use spikes. I plan on using Pliobond to glue the rail down. You won't want to cast this with overhanging spikes to hold the rail. The tie plates probably could use more detail such as spike heads. Best is to not try and make very many bubbles during mixing. Problem here is that it foams up and runs all over the mold before settling back down and then hardens. The other is using a vacuum pump to de-air the resin. My theory is since you are compressing the air they act as tiny air tanks under pressure and have a tendency to explode when flexed. I've tried this and found that the resin becomes brittle. One method of decreasing the air bubbles is to cure the resin in a pressure chamber of about 60 to 80 PSI. You'll also notice that there are air bubbles in the casting. I made the picture black and white for better contrast. The section of rail snaps into between the simulated tieplates. The one on the right I removed the flash with an Exacto knife. The other thing with the flash left on is on straight sections you don't need a straight edge to lay straight track. It's so thin that once you glued it down amd cover with ballast you'll never see it. The one on the left has the flash left on. Mmmmmm Sounds like this could be an article for Joe to consider. Once I get to that stage I will do a more detail write up of the process from thought to actual use. Since that is not commercially available I have to come up with something the I like. Code 55, or perhaps Code 40 makes it look more plausible. Problem is it looks to big, Code 83, to be used for a narrow gauge quarry line. As I'm getting my quarry line built I was going to use Peco turnouts and flex track in HOn30. I think it can be used to make reliable track if it's impossible to find a product already out there. As I've said this was just an experiment. Ask away I'll try to answer them as best I can. I'm guessing it's close to 2,000 or 3,000. I don't have anyway to tell at what RPM the Sherline mill motor runs at top speed. Of you don't you melt the acrylic and you wind up with a wad of plastic on the end of the cutter and the next thing you hear is a "ping" and the cutter is broken. One of the problems is getting the right cutter speed and feed. It's been a while since I did that and can't be accurate but I think it took around an hour or so. How long did it take to cut out one of those acrylic templates? (If you said, I must have overlooked it) I don't have the knowledge on getting down to that fine a detail in a casting. It would be a tedious job to make a master though. I believe you can attain the same or perhaps even better detail like on the Central Valley tie strips. So what level of detail would you say you can readily achieve with that process? The photos don't show it close-up very well. Vertical springy shouldn't happen since it's glued down, if your talking the tie strips. I'll need to take a picture and post it to this thread. I've started a small diorama to take it to the next step of actually gluing down the ties strip and adding track. I did just put some rail down and it will hold the "gauge" of the track. I've looked into additives that can be added to the resin to give it color. The one you did of the straight track looked very nice, albeit white Just out of curiosity, did you try laying rail in the mold and putting a train car on it? It took a while to get the tie lengths drawn in the DraftSight CAD program. Again it was a last minute thought to see if that was possible. I am curious, did you put the tie-plates on the switch? It didn't look like you did in the photo. It was an experiment to see if it was feasible. I should mention that Central Valley injection molded ties was the inspiration for doing the TT scale cast resin track. I'll do a write up when I get back to doing the track. One of them being four HOn30 elctric boxcab engines in brass. Right now I've got several brass scratchbuilding projects going. I am looking at doing HOn30 track and turnouts in resin as I build my quarry line. Right now that project is on the back burner. So I was curious to see if it can be done. I think if this worked out it would be a start for beginners wanting to get into TT scale. The reason I did them in TT scale is that there is no American made flex track for TT scale code 55. If you care to read up on how far I progressed here is the link: track I also was interested to see if complete turnout sections could be done. I proved to myself it can be done and that they will bend without breaking into quite a tight radius. ![]() I wondered if they would bend to the tight radius' that are used on TT scale. I wrote up a quick experiment to see if it was feasible to make track sections out of resin. I found the thread I did on casting resin tie strips.
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